How to: Maintain Your Roof And Guttering

Roofing problems are an issue in most homes at some stage, and often the repairs are well within reach of the DIYer. But because roof work can expose your house to the elements, it's important to approach roof guttering and maintenance with a careful plan. This guide covers all you need to know.

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Project Steps:

Spouting

  • Step 1: Investigating
  • Step 2: Removing Existing
  • Step 3: Setting Out
  • Step 4: Fitting The Spouting

Down Pipes

  • Step 1: Removal
  • Step 2: Fitting Down Pipe

Loose Ridge & Hip Capping Tiles

  • Step 1: Removing & Cleaning
  • Step 2: Bedding Joint

Project Checklist

Tools

  • Spouting
  • Spouting clips (1 per metre) & nails
  • Pop rivets
  • Silicone
  • Stop ends
  • Internal corners
  • External corners
  • Mineral turpentine
  • Rags
  • Down-piping
  • Pre-formed eaves angles
  • Down-pipe clips
  • Down-pipe pops

Materials

  • Pop-rivets
  • Brickies sand
  • Cement
  • Limil
  • Colour additive
  • Ridge capping
  • Roof tiles
  • Flashing (and pre-formed)
  • Roofing
  • Roof nails/ hex head screws
  • Silicone
  • Pop rivets
  • Flashing (and pre-formed)
  • Mineral turpentine
  • Rags

 

Spouting

Step 1

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Firstly find out whether the existing spouting profile is available. Be careful though as what may look the same could in fact be marginally different in size and profile to your existing. It is best to take either a piece of the spouting or one of the spouting clips to your Mitre 10 store. If you are able to match the exact profile then you will not need to remove and replace the spouting clips, unless of course the existing spouting has no fall to the drainage point.

Prior to accessing your roof, wrap some cloth around the top of your ladder ends so the spouting does not get scratched. Then place a piece of timber inside the spouting where the ladder is going to be placed so the pressure of weight does not distort the line of the spouting. Spouting may be available to order at some Mitre 10 stores.

Step 2

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First task is to release the pop rivets which are holding the joins, corners and perhaps the spouting brackets and spouting together. It may be necessary to cut the spouting to facilitate removal. This is done with a hacksaw or tin snips; do not use an angle grinder.

The spouting will have been fixed to the fascia board by spouting brackets and nails. To remove the spouting bend the clips at the outer upper lip of the spouting bracket upwards, then rotate the spouting off the bracket. Remove the spouting clips with your pinchbar.

Step 3

To create water flow to the down-pipe or outlet the spouting needs to be placed out of level and the rate of fall should be around 15-25mm per 10 metres. To create a straight line, run a string line out from one end to the other, stretch it tight and check that it has the correct amount of fall with a spirit level. Place the spouting brackets at one metre spacings using the string line as a guide to the horizontal position.

Pre-formed internal and external corners can be purchased for most spouting profiles, however for certain profiles and colours these may need to be made to order, so allow time in your ordering for this. Make a note of where the down pipes are located and cut and fit the down pipe pops into the spouting prior to putting the spouting up (Fig. 6). Silicone seal between the pop flange and the spouting, press the pop into place and the pop rivet the flanges to the base of the spouting.

Step 4

Commence laying the spouting from the lowest (down pipe end) point, this way the join laps will be layered so the collected water runs over the top of the joins and not into them. Measure along the fascia board for the length of spouting required, add to the length an allowance for a 20mm lap join into adjoining spouting and also the internal or external corners. Cut the spouting to length using your hacksaw or tin snips (do not use an angle grinder). Silicone and join the pre-formed corner to the spouting with pop rivets, use 4 pop rivets per join.

Squeeze some silicone around the inside of the overlapping end of any joining spouting. Place the spouting onto the fascia clips and position with the 20mm lap into the adjoining spouting. Press the spouting firmly into place, bend over the restraining tags on the spouting brackets and drill and pop rivet the joins. Clean any excess silicone off the face of the spouting and smooth out any silicone buildup inside the join.

Down Pipes

Step 1

Remove down pipe clips, and release any pop rivets at joins or the down pipe pop. One section of down pipe should be able to be slid down over the other to free it.

Step 2

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One end of the down pipe is larger in dimension than the other. This is the top section in all instances and allows one piece to fit inside the other and to a certain degree helps length adjustment. Join lap should be a minimum of 40mm.

Silicone is not used on the down pipe joins. Commence installation at the top with the spouting, joining and adjusting the length of the eaves bends. Measure, cut and fit the remaining lengths of down pipe. Place a down pipe clip over each join, and secure to the wall with screws or clouts

Loose Ridge & Hip Capping Tiles

Step 1

Take a bucket up onto the roof with you so all debris can be cleaned as it accumulates. To save breakage of tiles carefully tap the mortar joint between the tile and capping tile with a cold chisel. Once the tile is loose remove the old mortar from all surfaces.

Step 2

Mix up enough mortar for the job, at the rate of 4 sand, 1 cement, 1 limil. Add colour pigment to the mix if needed. This is to be in strict accordance with manufacturer’s instructions as too much will weaken the bed joint. Add water to create a thick creamy substance. Place some of the mixture in a bucket and take it up on the roof. Mark the outer edge line of the capping tile onto the roof tiles, and with the brickies trowel spread a bed of mortar about 50mm x 50mm along the inside of the marked line. Carefully press the ridge cap into the mortar bed until the correct height has been obtained, progressively overlap and lay the rest of the tiles.

Clean excess mortar off along the edge line of the tiles to leave a full clean bed of mortar