17 May 2024

The Ultimate Guide to Tiling Your Own Floors

Floor tiling can be a rewarding and cost-effective home improvement project. Whether you're renovating your bathroom, kitchen, or any other room, this guide will walk you through every step of the process, ensuring you achieve a professional finish.

We'll cover everything from selecting the right tiles to the final cleanup, answering common questions, and providing expert tips along the way.

Selecting the Right Floor Tiles

Choosing the right floor tiles is crucial for achieving both aesthetic appeal and functionality in your home. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you make the best decision.

Consider the Room

Different rooms have different requirements:

Bathroom and Kitchen: Opt for water-resistant and non-slip tiles such as porcelain or ceramic. These are durable and easy to clean.
Living Areas: Natural stone tiles like marble or slate add a touch of luxury. For a warm, rustic look, consider terracotta tiles.
Outdoor Areas: Ensure you select frost-resistant and non-slip tiles to withstand the elements.

Tile Material

Ceramic: Versatile and cost-effective, ideal for most indoor applications.
Porcelain: Denser and more durable than ceramic, suitable for high-traffic areas and outdoor use.
Natural Stone: Adds elegance and value but requires regular sealing and maintenance.
Glass: Great for accents and backsplashes, adding a glossy, modern touch.

Size and Shape

Large Tiles: Create a seamless, modern look and make small spaces appear larger. Ideal for living rooms and open-plan areas.
Small Tiles: Better for detailed work and areas with many fixtures, like bathrooms. They provide better slip resistance due to more grout lines.
Shapes: While square and rectangular tiles are classic choices, hexagonal, penny, and arabesque shapes can add unique visual interest.

Colour and Finish

Colour: Light colours make a room feel larger and more open, while dark colours add cosiness and sophistication. Neutral tones offer versatility, whereas bold colours create a statement.
Finish: Glossy tiles reflect light and are easy to clean but can be slippery. Matte and textured finishes provide better traction and hide dirt and scratches better.

Durability and Maintenance

Consider the tile's durability, especially in high-traffic areas:

PEI Rating: Indicates the tile’s resistance to wear. For floors, choose a PEI rating of 3 or higher.
Maintenance: Natural stone requires sealing, while ceramic and porcelain are low-maintenance. Glass tiles are easy to clean but can show smudges and fingerprints.

Budget

Balance quality and cost. While natural stone and high-end porcelain can be pricey, they offer longevity and timeless appeal. Ceramic tiles are budget-friendly and provide a wide range of styles.

Environmental Considerations

Eco-friendly tiles made from recycled materials or sustainable sources can be a great choice for environmentally conscious homeowners.

Sample Testing

Before making a final decision, order samples and test them in your space. Observe how they look under different lighting conditions and how they feel underfoot.

Selecting the right floor tiles involves balancing aesthetics, functionality, and budget. Take your time to explore different options, and consult with experts if needed. The right choice will enhance the beauty and value of your home for years to come.

Which type of tile?

Ceramic Tiles are ideal for kitchens,
bathrooms and halls, but their hard-wearing
and decorative surface is suitable for any
room. They come both glazed and unglazed
in a wide range of colours and patterns.
You should seal unglazed tiles with a ceramic
tile sealer before walking on them.
Vinyl Tiles are latex backed and comfortable
to walk on. They are supple and are easy to
handle and lay. They come in many colours
and designs, some imitating other materials
such as stone and timber. You can use them
in any room, but they are especially suited
to kitchens and bathrooms. Vinyl coated
tiles are also available. They offer a cheaper
alternative, but are not as durable.

Cork Tiles provide any room with a floor
surface that’s warm, wears well and is quiet
and comfortable to walk on. Most need to
be sealed with a polyurethane coating after
laying for protection. Check your Mitre I0
specialist for the correct type.

Tools for the Job

Ceramic Tiles:

Tape Measure, Stringline, Tile Cutters, Tile Nibblers, Tile File, Notched Adhesive Spreader, Sponge or Squeegee.

Vinyl and Cork Tiles:

Tape Measure, Stringline, Utility Knife, Straight-edge, Notched Adhesive Spreader.

Other essential tools

Depending on the surface you’re laying your tiles on. If it’s a timber floor, you’ll also need a saw, hammer and nail punch to first cover the floor with hardboard sheeting. If concrete, you may need a chisel to clean out small depressions and a trowel for levelling with mortar.

Step I: Planning

It’s well worth measuring and planning your layout on paper first, especially if you intend to use an intricate design. If the room is an irregular shape, divide it into rectangles and measure each one separately. Then make a scale drawing on graph paper. This will help you set out an attractive design and allow you to work out the number of tiles you need. Ceramic tiles are commonly 150 x 150mm square or 100 x 200mm oblong, but interlocking circular, hexagonal and Provencale-shaped tiles are also available. They can be bought singly or by the square metre. Vinyl and Cork tiles are 300 x 300mm square and are usually sold in packs. If you’re not planning a design, use this chart as a quick guide to the number of tiles you’ll need.

Step 2: Preparing the floor surface

The surface should be dry, flat, stable and free from grease, dirt and unsound material. If you have a concrete floor which is flat and level, go ahead and lay your tiles without further ado. But if there are small cracks or holes, first chisel out any loose material, sweep clean and fill using a pre-mixed cement. An uneven floor can be levelled using a self-levelling compound. Timber floors are not stable enough to tile directly over. An underlay must first be laid over it for best results. Hardboard underlay sheets such as masonite are suitable only for cork or vinyl. Ceramic tile underlay must be used under ceramic tiles. First punch any protruding nails in the floor below the surface. Begin laying the board in one corner with the smooth side facing up. Fix with 25mm underlay nails at I50mm intervals around the edges and 225mm apart across the middle of the sheets. Nail the first sheet and work along the wall. When you come to the end of a row, cut the sheet to fit. Use the off-cut to start the next row so the joins are staggered (Fig. I). This will prevent tiles from being disturbed if there’s any floor movement.

Step 3: Finding the starting point

Tiles look best centred in the middle of the room with any narrow tiles at the edges. So your first task is to find the centre of the floor. If you simply begin from a corner you may end up with whole tiles along one side and narrow tiles along the other. So instead, measure along one wall and mark the centre at floor level. Do the same along the opposite wall. Now stretch stringline from one centre mark to the other. Then repeat the process for the other two walls. The two lines will meet at the exact centre of your floor. It’s important that these two lines are square to each other. Measure 600mm from the intersecting point along one line, then 800mm along the other. Now measure diagonally to these two points. If the measurement reads Im then the lines are square. If not, adjust one of the lines and repeat the measuring process until the diagonal of 600:800 equals Im. Next, lay a row of loose tiles along both lines starting from your centre point (Fig. 2). If you find that there is less than one half of one tile between the wall and the last full tile, adjust the lines to set a new centre so that tiles are equal at both ends when cut. End tiles should be as close as possible to half the tile size when cut.

Step 5: Laying your tiles

Except for self-adhesive vinyl tiles, all floor tiles are laid in pretty much the same way. Begin by laying whole tiles, working from the centre outwards. Spread a bed of adhesive with a notched adhesive spreader according to the maker’s instructions (Fig. 3). Spread only enough adhesive to cover an area of about one square metre – any bigger and the adhesive may dry out before you reach the end.

Ceramic. Press the first tile into position, then twist it slightly to firmly bed it in the adhesive. Place the second tile alongside with the same gentle twisting motion, using a plastic tile spacer between them to obtain evenly spaced gaps. Continue until you’ve reached the edge of the adhesive, then spread another layer over a further square metre.

Vinyl. Place each tile directly into position without sliding. Butt up the edges closely. Firmly press down all over each tile with the palm of your hand to ensure good even adhesion. If using self-adhesive tiles, simply pull off the backing paper and press into place. Try to align tiles correctly the first time. If you do make a mistake, immediately lift the tile and re-stick it correctly. If you attempt to lift it later, it will probably tear.

Cork tiles should be positioned with a slight sliding action without forcing them tightly together. Avoid trimming the edges if they seem a bit out of square. It’s easier to fill any tapering joints with woodworker’s putty coloured to match the tiles.

Step 6: Fitting border tiles

When all the tiles are in position, start cutting tiles to size. Place the tile to be cut exactly on top of the last whole tile in a particular row. Place a second tile over it, this time butted up against the wall or skirting board (Fig. 4) (for ceramic tiles, place your tile spacer against the wall to allow for grouting). Use the edge of the top tile to make a line on the tile to be cut. For ceramic tiles, score across the line with a scribing tile cutter, then snap the tile with a heavy duty tile cutter for a clean break (Fig. 5). Comb adhesive on the back of the cut tile and press it into position hard against the wall or skirting. To cut an L-shape, score the surface carefully and nibble away the waste with tile pincers (Fig. 6). Vinyl and Cork tiles are much easier to cut. First, use a sharp utility knife to score through the surface. Then carefully bend back the tile – it should snap cleanly along the score line.

Step 7: Finishing off

With vinyl tiles, you need do nothing further. But ceramic tiles will need to be grouted and cork tiles sealed. In both cases, allow 24 hours for the adhesive to dry. When buying grouting, ensure that the colour you choose is going to enhance the overall appearance of the job. Mix it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make up only a small amount at a time and work in areas of one square metre. Use a sponge or rubber squeegee to force the grout into all gaps, wiping off the excess with a damp sponge as you work (Fig. 7). It’s best to use a piece of thin dowel with a rounded end to smooth the joints (Fig. 8). If you use your finger, make sure you wear rubber gloves – grout can irritate the skin. Leave it to dry for the manufacturer’s recommended time, then polish with a clean, dry cloth. If you’ve chosen cork tiles with a factory-applied sealer coat on the surface, you will only need to apply one coat of a polyurethane sealer or wax polish. But if it’s natural cork, it needs three coats. First, lightly sand with a power sander to ensure the surface and joins are smooth. Dust carefully – you can use a slightly damp cloth but don’t saturate the tiles. Leave them to dry, then seal as per manufacturer’s instructions with brush, roller or mop. Leave each coat to dry for at least 24 hours before the next

Tiling on Different Surfaces

Concrete Floors

Concrete is a great base for tiling due to its stability and durability. Follow these steps:

Preparation: Ensure the concrete surface is clean, dry, and free from cracks or imperfections.
Priming: Use a concrete primer to enhance the adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Wooden Floors

Wooden floors can pose a challenge due to their tendency to flex. Here's how to handle them:

Reinforcement: Apply a cement backer board or a decoupling membrane to provide a stable and rigid base.
Sealing: Ensure the wood is properly sealed to prevent moisture damage.

Existing Tiles

Tiling over existing tiles is possible if they are in good condition. Steps to follow:

Surface Preparation: Clean the old tiles thoroughly to remove any grease, dirt, or grime.
Adhesive: Use a high-quality adhesive specifically designed for tile-on-tile applications to ensure strong bonding.

Vinyl and Linoleum

Tiling over vinyl or linoleum is generally not recommended. Instead:

Removal: Remove the old vinyl or linoleum flooring completely.
Surface Check: Ensure the subfloor is level and free of any adhesive residues.
Priming: Apply a suitable primer if necessary.

Chipboard Floors

Chipboard floors need special preparation due to their susceptibility to moisture and movement:

Waterproofing: Apply a waterproof membrane to protect the chipboard from moisture.
Backer Board: Install a cement backer board over the chipboard to create a rigid and stable surface for tiling.

Plywood Floors

Like chipboard, plywood also requires careful preparation:

Stabilisation: Use a cement backer board or a decoupling membrane to stabilise the surface.
Priming: Apply a suitable primer to enhance the adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Metal Surfaces

Tiling on metal surfaces is less common but can be done with the right preparation:

Cleaning: Thoroughly clean the metal surface to remove any rust, grease, or contaminants.
Priming: Use a metal primer to ensure proper adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Tips for All Surfaces

Regardless of the surface, follow these general tips:

Check for Levelness: Ensure the surface is level and smooth to avoid tile lippage.
Use Appropriate Adhesives: Select the right adhesive for the specific surface to ensure a strong bond.
Follow Manufacturer Guidelines: Always adhere to the manufacturer's recommendations for the best results.

Tiling Different Rooms

Each room in your home has unique requirements when it comes to tiling. From moisture resistance in bathrooms to durability in kitchens and aesthetics in living areas, choosing the right tile for each space ensures functionality and enhances the overall look of your home.

Bathroom

Moisture Resistance: Choose tiles that are water-resistant, such as porcelain or ceramic, to handle the high humidity and potential water exposure.
Non-Slip Surface: Opt for tiles with a matte or textured finish to prevent slipping.
Small Size: Smaller tiles or mosaic patterns work well in bathrooms, especially for shower floors and walls, to provide better grip.

Kitchen

Durability: Kitchens require tiles that can withstand heavy foot traffic, spills, and stains. Porcelain and ceramic are excellent choices.
Ease of Cleaning: Glossy or semi-glossy tiles are easier to clean but can be slippery. Ensure the kitchen floor has some texture to prevent accidents.
Heat Resistance: Tiles near stoves or ovens should be heat-resistant. Ceramic and porcelain are again ideal due to their high heat tolerance.

Living Areas

Aesthetics: For living rooms and hallways, focus on the visual appeal. Natural stone, like marble or slate, adds elegance, while wood-look tiles offer a warm, inviting feel.
Large Tiles: Larger tiles create a spacious and seamless look, ideal for open-plan areas.
Comfort: Consider underfloor heating with your tiles for added comfort, especially if using materials like stone which can be cold underfoot.

Outdoor Areas

Weather Resistance: Choose tiles specifically designed for outdoor use, such as frost-resistant porcelain or natural stone that can withstand varying weather conditions.
Non-Slip Surface: Ensure the tiles have a rough texture to provide traction and prevent slipping, especially when wet.
Durability: Outdoor tiles must be durable to handle the elements, foot traffic, and potential impacts.

Laundry Room

Waterproofing: Like bathrooms, laundry rooms need water-resistant tiles to manage potential spills and moisture.
Stain Resistance: Opt for tiles that resist stains from detergents and cleaning agents.
Slip Resistance: Ensure the floor has a non-slip surface to prevent accidents.

Garage

Strength: Use tiles that can bear the weight of vehicles and resist chemicals and oil spills. Porcelain tiles or specialised garage tiles are ideal.
Easy Maintenance: Choose tiles that are easy to clean and maintain, with a rough texture to prevent slipping.

Balcony

Weatherproofing: Select tiles that can endure outdoor conditions, including rain, sun, and temperature changes.
Non-Slip Surface: Ensure the tiles provide good traction to prevent slips and falls.
Aesthetic Appeal: Consider the overall look and feel you want to achieve, complementing the outdoor space.

Tiling your own floors can transform your space and add value to your home. With the right tools, materials, and guidance, even a novice DIYer can achieve a professional-looking finish. Happy tiling!